I THINK I’ve found the most wholesome place on the planet – and with the best hash browns.
Despite being some of our closest neighbours, Wales is sometimes sadly overlooked by tourists from Ireland and abroad.
But a recent trip there taught me that it has as much to offer as our own little island, if not much more.
Cardigan, where I stayed, is a popular coastal town some 30 minutes from Fishguard, where I arrived on the ferry from Rosslare Europort.
I had travelled with my plus one to Wales for the famous Other Voices festival in Cardigan, a three day event of speakers, singers, and dancers, all celebrating the history and culture of Wales.
After a stop at the wholesome family run Melyn Tregwynt woollen mill for lunch, we made our way to the stunning Plas Lllangoedmor Estate, our 16th century accommodation for three nights.
The estate, run by owners Cath and Pete, is a true passion project with an emphasis on sustainability, community, and hospitality.
Managed by a small and friendly team, the five bedroom B&B was a welcome escape from run-of-the-mill hotels where faceless multi-nationals pocket the cash.
By contrast, the old world hotel (complete with drawing room, library, and grand piano) source food from their own kitchen gardens where seasonal fruit and veg are planted, and use their hotel as an exhibition space for local artists.
Our own dramatic room was the picture of luxury and could be likened to Downton Abbey or Bridgerton, with shuttered windows and a sleigh bed.
But the major draw of the Plas Estate is their dog-friendly policy.
Furry friends are not only welcome but encouraged at the house, which is home to the staff’s own collection of pets, with dog beds in each room and a groom room for VIP canines.
But of course, we couldn’t spend all our time at the Estate.
Instead, we spent three jam packed days enjoying all that Cardigan had to offer including stunning cliff hikes, cosy pubs, delicious gin tasting and a buzzy little town against a backdrop of the Other Voices festival.
Night one was spent enjoying our first performance of the event, in the fairy lit Pizza Tipi on the town’s main street.
Irish performer Eoghan Ó Ceannabháin was the ideal introduction to the type of music on display at the festival.
The Dublin man sings in Irish and English and offered a mix of original folk music that had the entire tent clapping one minute and in tears the next.
TASTY DINING
From the lively performance, it was off to the nautical Ferry Boat Inn on the river Teifi for a glass of wine and a hearty bowl of pasta.
The next morning after a fresh locally produced breakfast, we were taken to see the UK’s smallest city, St. David’s.
More like a town than a city, St. David’s is a cheery maze of winding streets and organic shops.
Cardigan has none of the flashy touristy chains that you often see in famous places – instead there’s a huge focus on organic, sustainable, locally sourced products.
But the real charm of St. David’s is the cathedral, which you could almost miss if you didn’t know it was there.
Tucked behind an archway at the end of the main street is the magnificent building, and we were fortunate enough to take a tour of the inside.
A truly beautiful place, St. David’s Cathedral dates back to around 1181 and has a long and fascinating history.
GORGEOUS COASTLINE
To see more of the area around Cardigan we took a short hike along the cliff edges at Poppet Sands beach, a huge sandy stretch that’s wild in the winter and no doubt beautiful in summer.
From the well-trodden path we could see the dramatic cliffs below with hidden caves and secret bays.
It was hard not to think of the history of the Welsh coastline, with its stories of smugglers and pirates.
The area is also home to huge seal and dolphin colonies, and we were lucky enough to spot a fluffy white baby seal just learning how to swim.
ANCIENT CHURCH
That evening we were treated to a cocktail at the award-winning Albion hotel in Cardigan town, which received the Sunday Times hotel of the year award in 2023 after being open for just six months.
One look inside at the wood panelled and stone finished bar (with a delicious and extensive original Wales inspired cocktail menu) told us why.
From there, dinner in The Printworks tapas bar kept us going ahead of a church performance at St. Mary’s.
A three day music event is bound to have some hits and misses, and although the music wasn’t to my taste, the church itself was a sight to see.
It’s funny to see the old meets new of an ancient church decked out in show lights and speakers, but in Wales, it somehow fit right in.
After a quick night cap at the Castle Inn, a cosy pub straight out of the Treasure Planet novel, it was home to bed.
FINAL DAY
Our final full day in Cardigan was probably my favourite, involving a morning of charity shop browsing and a truly delicious lunch at Crwst café, home to amazing hash browns and famous donuts.
From there it was on to the Welsh Wind Distillery, a whiskey and gin producer with a focus on local produce and sustainability.
We were treated to a gin tasting and tour, along with a display of how gin is made and stored.
That night was a performance at Bethania Baptist Chapel by Gareth Bonnello, a Welsh singer who performs in English and Welsh a mixture of original folk and indie songs.
Afterwards, I listened to his conversation spoke in Welsh and translated to English titled “Why don’t you just sing in English?”
NO JUDGEMENT DANCING
The musician spoke about the importance of representing his country and heritage through his music and it was a truly inspiring conversation.
After a delicious slice at Pizza Tipi, we ended the night with one of the funniest – and most endearing – sights I’ve ever seen.
A disco was being held at the local cultural centre and it played host to everyone from the age of six up to 106.
It embodies everything I loved about Cardigan – there was no judgement, only open mindedness and fun.
We had a hilarious time and called it a night before ten in keeping with the rest of the crowd.
Our final morning involved a hearty breakfast and a brisk walk along the headland with a stunning view, before catching the ferry home after a wave goodbye to our much appreciated driver.
